At the end of July we arrived in Washington state so we made the trip from Florida to the opposite side of the country. It felt like a little achievement. (Un)fortunately we had spent way more time in Idaho than we had planned so that we had to rush down the West coast faster than we would have liked or than this part of the United states deserved. In Washington State we visited, among other things, the little German town of Leavenworth and Mt Rainier (check out our video) but missed the Puget Sound- Whidbey Island, San Juan Island, the Olympic Peninsula etc. In Oregon we went to see Mt Rainier, Mt Hood, the Oregon Coastline, went mushroom foraging and more. The last sight we went to see in Oregon was Crater Lake.
We parked our house on wheels on a forest road off of route 138 and stayed 3 nights. After driving a couple hundred miles and setting up we took it easy, discovered the area a bit and had dinner. With our T-mobile mobile internet we had a decent signal and were able to work online.
The next morning we set of to go to the lake. With our National Parks Pass – America the Beautiful – we had quick access but there was not a long line at the gate anyway. The road to get to the lake is quite long but when you drive up to the rim you are in awe with what you see.
The view is spectacular, there is a steep drop and slopes to the lake, the water is very clear and the sky is perfectly mirrored in the lake as there is not a lot of wind at the surface of the lake. Wizard Island is the center of attention. There are plenty of view points where you can park your car and take photographs.
Crater Lake was formed through an eruption and collapse of a volcano (Mt Mazama) and is the deepest lake in the United States at 1949 ft. The lake is 5 by 6 miles across and the rim is 7000 to 8000 feet high.
We wanted to hike the Garfield Peak Trail so we drove to one of the lodges and started our hike. It started of through trees and then got moderately steep and there were a few switch backs. We walked for about 50 minutes but two of our girls started slipping on the gravel and I was uncomfortable taking them further up. Along one side of the trail was a steep drop-off. So we turned around and drove a little more along the rim.
The next day we came back and drove in the opposite direction. We arrived at the trailhead of Cleetwood Cove Trail and parked the car so the kids could run around and have a look. I walked down part of the trail. It was steep and had switch backs pretty much all the way down to the cove. The trail is 2.1 miles long with an elevation change of 610 feet.
There is a boat that will take you to Wizards Island or just around the lake. The lake was stocked with fish until 1941 but fishing is allowed and welcome. Two species remained, Kokanee salmon and rainbow trout.
After that we carried on a little further but it started getting dark so we went back to the camper for dinner.
Crater lake is definitely worth the visit even if you just drive around the rim. I would love to go back one day to hike and maybe swim in the lake. But for now we are headed to California to see more of this beautiful country.
After visiting Phoenix for a LV conference we decided to spend some of the winter in Southern California. There are a few Thousand Trail RV parks in Southern Arizona but they are all age limited (55+). So we decided to go back to Southern California where there are a few Thousand Trails as well.
We went to Palm Springs Thousand Trails and had the best time there. The park is clean, the pool area is great, there were lots of children for ours to meet; but most of all the staff there are super friendly and forthcoming. They helped us with our future reservations and we never had an issue with anything. There were also daily activities for the children.
The pool area at Thousand Trails, Palm Springs. We went there on a day pass to do Laundry and use the pool.
After 2 weeks we had to leave however and decided to spend a week on the BLM land at the South-entrance of Joshua Tree National Park. I had read about it researching where to stay and only found positive feedback. we arrived in the afternoon filled up with water and gas and were ready to spend the week.
As you get off route 10 and head towards the park after about half a mile is a road running parallel to route 10 with a lot of spots. To our surprise there were already about 30 RVs, something we had not experienced before. Usually there are 5-10 spots. but here was room for probably 50 more easily. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land is just outside the park and stretches for miles in both directions. Because the area is so large there is plenty of privacy. Our closest neighbors were about 100 yards away from us. So there is plenty of room for our children to play, to make lots of noise and still not bother anyone.
The beginning of the dirt road leading to many boondocking sites.
We stayed there in mid November for a week and came back again at the beginning of December. The weather was very comfortable but it got chilly at night. You are supposed to only stay 14 days at one place but we never noticed anyone stop and check.
Sunset in the desert.
As we are a large family we go through our water very quickly and after 3-4 days we are usually out. If you enter Joshua Tree National Parks South entrance you head towards Cottonwood Campground. There is a dump station and fresh water so we took the trailer to dump and fill up with fresh water. There was no sign so we did not pay anything. We have the annual America the Beautiful National Parks membership so we entered the park with that but there is no barrier or ranger station you have to pass.
The dirt road stretches for miles.
You are in the desert here but there are plenty of shrubs, bushes and small trees. The ground was mostly gravel but it was compact enough for our rig not to get stuck. The kids played ball and bocce outside, rode their bikes and dug holes with the shovel we have.
We had plenty of space and spread out.
The internet there was good enough to stream video over our T-mobile internet gateway. The mountains of Joshua Tree are right behind you and there is an area that is managed by the LA water district which you are not allowed to enter. As long as you stay away from it you are fine to spread out as much as you want. We saw several groups of trailers in a circle who met over the weekend. There were expensive motor homes, Trailers, camper vans and people camping in tents.
We had plenty of campfires whereas most of California has a ban. There are stone rings set up everywhere.
There are plenty of things to do in Joshua Tree NP as well. We took the children on a hike, bouldering and also just drove from one end to the other with plenty of stops for all the different sites. All in all we felt very safe as there very a lot of campers and we left our trailer by itself to go to town for shopping etc. It is definitely a place we will use again if we feel in need to stay somewhere in Southern California.
Had the most epic day hiking around Mt. Rainier in Washington State! It is breathtakingly beautiful, with the snowcapped mountain tops, flowing brooks, waterfalls from melting snow, a pristine view of the Cascade mountains, abundant wildflowers, tall pines, blue skies, hundreds of chipmunks scurrying about, marmots, mountain goats and delicious wild blueberries. I couldn’t but feel an immense gratitude. For years all we wanted was more time together as a family when it seemed so impossible at the time with Andre working long hours, weekends and holidays as an executive chef at fine-dining restaurants or country clubs. Somehow, we’ve been able to transition building our own business that is location independent, gives us opportunities to travel full time and explore this beautiful countryside and have so much quality time as a family!
This didn’t happen by chance!!
I had to be sick and tired of being sick and tired.
I had to work on my mindset!!
I had to believe it was possible!!
I had to be consistent and committed!
I had to trust the process!
I had to get comfortable being uncomfortable!
I had to unlearn and relearn and learn no skill sets.
I had to make temporary sacrifice for long term gain
I had to deal with disappointment and move on!
I had to fail many times and get up again and again!
But it’s all worth it for the person I am becoming in the process, the life we are creating and the lives we’ve changed and continue to change for the better!!
Anyone who has a burning desire for a better life has everything they need to create it!
There is one quality which one must possess to win, and that is definiteness of purpose, the knowledge of what one wants, and a burning desire to possess it.
Napolean Hill
Stay tuned for a video from Andre and more posts about Mt. Rainier!!
Andre and Andrea at Mt. Rainier, Washington
Pauline and Josephine are absolutely delighted to see snow after 8 months of chasing summer!
Brad, a fellow hiker, took this photo for us! Missing are Noah our oldest and our boxer dog, Freya. Dogs aren’t allowed at national parks.
When we got on the road in December last year, we thought we’d stay in RV-parks all the time and did not really think about staying in the middle of no-where. Mostly because of the inconvenience of not having water and sewer. The exception was when we were between destinations and stayed at a Walmart, Cracker barrel or at a rest area.
As we headed further West things opened up and more and more opportunities to boon-dock arose. Especially in Arizona and Utah Bureau of Land Management (BLM) – Lands were abundantly available. The first time we spent the night in Dispersed Camping was close to the Grand Canyon when a friend suggested to stay in one particular spot. We enjoyed it so much that we stayed another night. Of course the Grand Canyon made it an easy decision and we might have stayed even longer but we had to be at a convention in Provo Utah. On our way from the Grand Canyon we stayed at Dispersed Camping again. Each time we set up camp in the dark and were amazed where we were in the morning. In Arizona we woke up in the forest with no one else in sight. In Utah we woke up on a small field with mountains around us. Just recently we stayed near the Salt Flats at the Nevada border in Utah and loved it.
Our first boon-docking site near the Grand Canyon
I think we like Dispersed Camping so much because we are connected to our surroundings much closer, we are seeing things from a completely different angle and in a way are feeling more free than in an RV park worrying about the noise and occasional chaos in our trailer at an RV park. The children are less restricted and can do things more freely. We as parents don’t have to worry about the well-meant opinions of other people of how to bring up our children. In general there are much fewer restrictions than in any RV-park.
We are also closer connected as a family as we have to spent more time together. We play games, have bicycle races, the children built a fort together etc. But there is of course time to step back and have some alone-time.
Up until then…
we had to learn how to set up and live in an RV. We were looking for the comfort of hook-ups for power, sewer and water. It did not take us long to figure it out and we became very comfortable. I trained Noah and Sebastian to help set up and break down and everyone has their responsibilities. We can move within 2 hours if we did not prepare anything the day prior, faster if we get a few things done the night before.
But one thing seemed to be missing. We did not explore much, go on hikes or bike rides. We went to the pool a lot and the kids spent a lot of time in the club house and with other kids. The first time we went hiking was in Arizona when we went up Cathedral Rock. We made it a point to go hiking that time. Yes before we went to visit towns, the beach or other sights but we had to travel there and set up camp and of course pay. Much of this changes when you are camping on BLM Lands.
On the Ridge of Cathedral Rock
What we’ve learned so far
Of course you need certain things to live in an RV. Power – we have a (gas powered) generator and one solar panel on the roof of the trailer; Water – until now we always bought water at the store and used tap water with the Birkie; and Food – we have a Costco membership and can store food in various places. Of course we need to do laundry once a week and run a few other errands as well. The Internet is important for us to have for our business. And then of course we have to empty the tanks every now and then.
Power
With the generator we get enough power to run one A/C. Of course it runs on gas and with the prices currently (Thanks to the current administration) we need to be mindful of how much we use it. With the one gas can we are carrying with us we have enough power for about 3 days. Food we usually buy with a few exceptions for one to two weeks.
Water
Water we store in a large tank in the trailer. I always was worried about the extra weight and the water moving while we were traveling, but it has been fine. So now we carry about 60 gallons fresh water in the tank. We also have another two 10 gallon tanks in the back of the van. Water is a precious commodity when you’re boon-docking. We never have enough for our family so we have to constantly get more. Most gas stations with a dump station have potable water as well but in the dessert near the Bonville Salt Flats none of them did. We had to buy water at the store once we ran out. we went to the swimming pool one day to refresh and got on the road again a couple days later.
Of course you need water for the dishes as well but you can limit that by cooking food that does not require a lot of dishes like grilling or the pressure cooker and use disposable plates which we do not like to do.
In the forest we told our boys to use gods bathroom and saved water this way as well.
Internet
For the internet when parking on BLM land we look at our phones for cellular service and internet. Certain apps ie. Campendium will give you a good idea about cellular service. Through a tip of friends we started using the wifi hot spot from T-mobile and have had great results. Our phones are using the Verizon network but the T-mobile router has been the go to source for internet.
Campendium is a great source free campgrounds or dispersed parking, dump sites and amenities. Another app we have used is The Dyrt.
But I found out recently that the Garmin GPS I bought especially for our RV travels has all this built in and I get the directions for a rig our size rather than for a regular car. I can avoid tolls and dont have to worry about a bridge being too low or weight restricted. It has also been better finding spots to stay than the app.
Are we worried about anything?
I come from Germany and we do not have any harmful animals in the wild. Coming to the US and knowing there are venomous snakes, scorpion, bears and mountain lion makes me think when we are in the forest or elsewhere in the wilderness. But people have lived with them for a long time. Usually most creatures want to be left alone so we told the children to make a lot of noise and stomp their feet when we are walking outdoors and to avoid certain areas or be extra careful. Mountain lions and bears are rare enough that we don’t worry about them.
As a homeschooling family we are aware that certain states have stricter laws than others. We have our routine every morning and are usually done around one o’clock. occasionally when we go hiking we learn on the road, read in the car and being outside in nature is a way of learning in itself. We are members of Home School Legal Defense just in case we run into any issues.
The same thing could happen with any kind of laws so we are checking those online before we cross state borders.
Sunset in the desert near Bonneville Speedway
Leaving our trailer unattended
When we staying near the Grand Canyon we obviously wanted to go see it. We arrived at our site in the dark and stayed pretty close to the dirt road. After school before we left for the Grand Canyon I moved the trailer a little further into the woods and we left it there. We were told by friends who coincidentally parked close to us not to leave the trailer alone with the slides in as it is easier to steal and also to get a lock for the hitch which will make it much harder, yet.
We have been enjoying our life on the road in general but have fallen in love with being out in the desert, the forest or in the mountains. You can’t get much closer to nature than this. The kids are also enjoying this lifestyle. We want to offer them both opportunities; to play with other kids and have a swimming-pool and amenities nearby but also to experience the life outdoors – near a lake, a river, the desert or the mountains.
Healing is mind, body and soul and this breathtaking day hike with the healing sulphur hot springs at the top elevate each of these areas! I am so glad that we went out of our way to do it!
An Ideal Day Trip from Salt Lake City, Utah
If you find yourself in Salt Lake City for a business trip, or any other trip, I highly recommend a trip to 5th Water Hot Springs located on Diamond Fork Road in beautiful Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest near Spanish Fork. It was my first hot springs experience and from now on, I’ll make a habit of seeking them out as we travel!
Even if the hot springs weren’t waiting for us at the top, the hike itself is absolutely beautiful and moderately difficult, with stunning scenery and the trail follows the 5th Water Creek.
Kid Friendly and Dog Friendly Trail
We did this hike in July with our 7 children, ages 14 down to 11 months, and also brought our brindle boxer dog, Freya!
This trail has some semi steep areas and some narrow parts that make it not suitable for a jogger stroller. I carried Bodhi, our 11-month-old son, in my baby Ergo carrier and Andre carried our 2-year-old Romi on his strong shoulders or arms, when she was too tired to walk.
The trail is a total of 5 miles with an ascent of approx 700 feet. The other children really enjoyed the beauty and the challenge.
By the time we had returned back to the van they were definitely tired and so happy for fresh cool water and the watermelon we had waiting for us. We went on a Saturday and the main parking lot was packed. Hikers were very friendly and helpful!
SNAKES
We passed 3 large Great Basin Gofer Snakes on the trail. Have no fear! They are non-venomous, and their secret weapon is that they look very similar to a rattlesnake and even shake their tail. An older gentleman hiker picked up one of the snakes and took the opportunity to share some information with the children (hello unschooling!), who were all fascinated. Afterwards, he kissed the snake and sent him on its way!
Sulpher Springs or Rotten Eggs?
As you hike closer to the hot springs, you’ll start to smell the sulphur. Remind yourself that not only is it a natural occurring chemical, but it is also very healing, especially for the skin and even helps build up your natural collagen.
The children loved exploring the spring!
Hot Springs and a Cool Waterfall
When you get to the top there are little pockets of bubbling hot springs about 18″ diameter that mingle with the flowing cool waterfall and the waters flow into man made rock tubs of varying temperatures.
The hotter ones are closer to the springs. One spring was the clear favorite and that’s where most of us soaked. The boys were in the larger one that had black, charcoal like sand at the bottom. We spent about 2 hours in the springs. Andre ventured further with the boys where they found a 2nd waterfall and another hot spring! If you want to get away from the crowd go up to the 2nd waterfall!
It was hard to leave, and we’ll definitely do this trip again. I would love to experience it in the Fall.
Have you been to a hot spring before? Please share your favorite ones!!
It is breathtakingly beautiful, with the snowcapped mountain tops, flowing brooks, waterfalls from melting snow, a pristine view of the Cascade mountains, abundant wildflowers, tall pines, blue skies, hundreds of chipmunks scurrying about, marmots, mountain goats and delicious wild blueberries. I couldn’t but feel an immense gratitude. For years all we wanted was more time together as a family when it seemed so impossible at the time with Andre working long hours, weekends and holidays as an executive chef at fine-dining restaurants or country clubs. Somehow, we’ve been able to transition building our own business that is location independent, gives us opportunities to travel full time and explore this beautiful countryside and have so much quality time as a family!
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